Key To The Keys

I recently returned from a trip to Key West, Florida.  It's long been a domestic 'final frontier' of mine, one of the few places I've always wanted to visit, but never have.

Here are my observations:

• While not that far in distance, the drive from Miami to Key West takes 3-4 hours since you're going through several other island keys and resort areas.  It was interesting to see everything, and even stop for food and beverages -- but I wouldn't care to do it again as opposed to flying.

• Viewing the sunset is a big deal at Key West, and hundreds gather each evening for just that activity.  At Mallory Square, the sunset is accompanied by several street performers to pass the time.  For those willing and able, there are lots of sunset cruises on the water available.

• The main tourist hub is Duval Street.  It's a two-mile long stretch of nothing but big bars (some famous, like Ernest Hemingway's old hangout, Sloppy Joes) and restaurants and touristy shops on both sides.  It's amenable to not only walkers but also those on bicycles and scooters.  It was a longer, slightly more family-friendly version of Bourbon Street in New Orleans.

• The Key West Historic Seaport is another tourist hotspot.  There were at least three large restaurants with outdoor seating from where you can watch fishing boats and yachts moving in and out (or cruise on one yourself).  Jimmy Buffett's Key West recording studio is there as well.

• I was expecting more of an island vibe to Key West, kind of laid back with Jimmy Buffett music emanating from every corner.  Turns out it had much more of a classic rock, crossover-county vibe, with a big blue-collar crowd to go along with the affluent tourists, at least after the sun went down.

• Speaking of music.....there was a lot of live music.  It started in the morning at the resorts and a few bars, and it was almost everywhere at night.  It was practically a necessity for a bar to have live music to draw patrons in from the street.

In summary, I'd say if New Orleans mated with Cape Cod, the offspring would end up to be something like Key West.

Laissez Les Bon Temps Roule'

I visited New Orleans for a family wedding last week.  Hadn't been there before; I almost did nine years ago for a conference, but that was ruined by Hurricane Katrina, and I never came close since.

When I asked others who had been to NOLA about what they thought of it, the one consistent reply was that it was kind of a dirty place.  All they seemed to recall was the heat and grime and smell of Bourbon Street.

I didn't think it was inordinately dirty or smelly.  I would tell you it's a lot better than that.  Some observations:

* Generally speaking, the French Quarter area is an eclectic place, as the inhabitants blend in with the tourists and street performers around Jackson Square.  The weekend day I was there, the Gumbo Festival was in full swing at a nearby park, and the local food and jazz music were flowing.

* Bourbon Street went from nearly deserted in the morning, to wall-to-wall people at night.  While the crowd was rowdy, it was also friendly, with booze and food and live music everywhere.  And it was fun to be a small part of the bead throwing.  (Just ask -- you don't have to do more, at least not on the Saturday night I was there.)

* The Garden District, with its old, large, and (some) celebrity homes, is unique to see.  Also, not interesting enough to go back another time, unless Sandra Bullock or Archie Manning happen to be out in their front yards.

* Yes, the cemeteries have the dead buried above ground.  So there's that.

* This one doesn't apply to most visitors, but hands down, the best part for me was being part of a "Second Line" wedding parade.  From beautiful St. Louis Cathedral, we walked several blocks through the French Quarter to the hotel reception, the streets often lined two-or-three deep with tourists taking pictures/videos of us waving white cloths behind a brass band.  It was the coolest thing I've been a part of in a long time.

Overall, The Big Easy exceeded my expectations.